🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.